Also works great with any pumpkin that hasn't been carved or thrown.
Quantities and measurements are approximate; adjust to suit the size of your pumpkin or squash.
Preheat oven to 350. Slice squash in half lengthwise. Remove seeds and glop; save the seeds. Coat inside of squash with a thin layer of olive oil, and place face down on a cookie sheet. Bake for about 20 minutes. When squash is soft so that a fork can be inserted easily, remove from oven and allow to cool.
While squash is roasting, chop up onions, place in bottom of soup pot, and sautee in olive oil until translucent or slightly browned. When squash is cool enough to handle safely, remove peels and scoop all of the flesh into the pot. Add enough broth to make a thick, chunky stew. Cook, stirring gently, until the squash starts falling apart. Using a blender, puree the soup and return it to the pot.
Grate about 1/3 of a whole nutmeg into the pot. If preparing ahead of time, refrigerate soup at this point.
(Re)heat soup before serving, adding salt and pepper to taste. Add milk for creamy appearance, taste and texture. Serve soup with toasted seeds sprinkled on top.
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Rinse seeds and clean off residual pumpkin or squash guts. Spread seeds in a single layer on a cookie sheet and spray or coat with olive oil. Sprinkle gently with salt and cumin. Roast seeds until they just start to turn brown, about 5 minutes. Watch carefully; seeds will burn easily.