Vietnamese Inspired Summer Rolls
from Lynne Rosetto Casper
This week it's inspiration from Vietnam, specifically spring rolls with a spicy-sweet dipping sauce. Think lots of vegetables, little fat and great plays of spice, tart, sweet and heat. Flavors are so fresh and light they practically do handsprings. I stress “inspiration,” rather than duplication. These are improvisations on Vietnamese dishes I've had across the country. You gather whatever combination of cooked and raw vegetables handy; add tofu, or cooked meat or fish, some fresh herbs and rounds of rice paper (found in supermarkets or Asian groceries). Soften the thin, crisp rice paper rounds in water, pile on your choices and roll them up. Dipping sauce adds the final seasoning. Essentially it's a make-your-own wrapped supper. For entertaining, set out ingredients in the center of the table with a variety of herbs and greens. Everyone makes his own, changing combinations with each Spring Roll. Try cooked meat and/or vegetables, or the classic Vietnamese blend of lettuce, rice noodles, fresh herbs, shrimp and pork (bought already cooked at Asian markets). There's no frying. If you want to do Spring Rolls ahead, they keep for hours under a dampened paper towel in the refrigerator. Serve them with the Sweet-Tart Dipping Sauce (below). HOME-STYLE SPRING ROLLS Serves 4
- • 1/4 pound vermicelli rice noodles, soaked in very hot tap water to tender, but not mushy (3 to 5 minutes), drained, rinsed, and drained again
- • 1/2 pound Asian barbecued pork, or cooked beef, chicken, or tofu, thinly-sliced, or any fairly dry cooked vegetable or meat
- • 1/2 pound cooked shrimp, halved lengthwise (optional)
- • 12 lettuce leaves, washed, dried and thinly sliced
- • 1 to 2 cups shredded carrots, or other vegetables shredded on a cheese grater
- • 1 bunch spearmint, washed and dried
- • 1 bunch coriander or basil (Thai basil, if possible), washed and dried
- • 20 rice paper rounds (6 to 7-inch diameter)
1. Place ingredients within easy reach of everyone at the table. Moisten rice paper by rubbing with water. Let stand a few moments until softened.
2. On the bottom third of the rice paper round, make a small pile of rice noodles, a few shreds of meat, half a shrimp, some lettuce, carrot, and a leaf of each herb.
3. Roll up the rice paper over the filling, taking it halfway up the uncovered portion of rice paper. Now fold in the side flaps and continue rolling until you have a tight cylinder. Put on a plate and keep covered with a damp cloth.
4. Serve garnished with sprigs of mint and with individual bowls of dipping sauce. One trick to Spring Rolls is having ingredients as dry as possible.
SWEET-TART DIPPING SAUCE
Makes about 1 1/2 cups and keeps 2 weeks refrigerated.
• 2/3 to 1 cup water (2 parts) • 1/3 to 1/2 cup Vietnamese or Thai fish sauce (called nuoc mam) (1 part +) • 2/3 cup fresh lime juice, or to taste (2 parts) • 2/3 cup sugar (2 parts) • 2 large cloves garlic, minced • Chile paste or hot red pepper flakes to taste
Put everything in a screw-top jar and shake together. Taste for sweet-tart balance, adding more lime or sugar as needed. Let mellow about 30 minutes before pouring into individual dipping bowls. Sauce keeps two weeks in the refrigerator. Note: Some people might find the chile too hot, so have everyone add it to taste to their sauce at the table.